When it comes to France, in memory, usually there is an image of the Eiffel tower, Montmartre or the Louvre. However, France is not only Paris. Any country is interesting primarily for the province, because it was there, away from the bustle of the capital, retained its authentic spirit. In France there is a province, whose name long ago became a household word: Provence.
With the filing of Caesar
To begin with, his name, like many others, Provence owes to the ancient Romans. Long before they settled here, and the Phoenicians, the Greeks, conquering small areas of land from the local Celtic tribes. The most powerful army in the world under the command of Caesar came here in 58 BC, and in a few years conquered a vast territory — Transalpine Gaul. Combined together with so-called Narbonskaya Gaul, it became the first Roman province outside of the Apennine Peninsula.
Movable clear Imperial ambitions, the Romans began to call it simply “the province” (Provincia nostra). Gradually the word “our” fell away, leaving just a “Province” or, as the French say, Provence. It happened rather quickly — at least, already Caesar had his legionaries sent the order to cross the rhône and go out in the Provincia Narbonnensis.
After the fall of the Roman Empire in Provence and had visited and the Visigoths, and the Franks, and Arabs (the latter now returned as French citizens). But the name has stuck. In the Middle ages, the region existed as a sovereign Kingdom of the same name and even gave shelter to the popes in the years of their so-called “Avignon captivity”.
Currently, the composition of this French province has grown somewhat, and in addition to historic Provence it includes the côte d’azur and Alpes-Maritimes. Accordingly, the East area is the Alps, in the West — Rhône, on the South by the Mediterranean sea. The capital of the region is one of the oldest cities of France — AIX-EN-Provence.
Due North
Straight from Moscow to the capital of Provence it is impossible to get. The nearest airport from where regular direct flights of “Aeroflot” and Air France, but with a change, is nice. There is even some advantage: immersion in Provence, you can start with a visit to the sea, walk along the famous promenade des Anglais and dinner at some wonderful restaurant.
Provence gastronomy is highly conducive to research, no wonder the local cuisine is famous far beyond France. Any self-respecting provençal chef uses only local ingredients: the butter — cream or olive, fresh fish and seafood, meats and cheeses, local wine and even coffee, which is made at the factory Malongo in nice itself.
View of nice from Grasse
Photo: Anatoly Miruk
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Provencal wine, especially the pink — the theme of separate big conversation. Such thin, fragile, pure and elegant rose not find anywhere else in the world, and the local winemakers know it. With white and red things are not worse, but they unwittingly have to compete with the mighty ronzani and thoroughbred bordonali. Provencals often lose them in the organoleptic, but give a head start for the price.
In the town of Grasse, located 15 minutes drive from nice, is perfume factory of Fragonard, one of the oldest in the world. When it created the original Museum, the exposition tells in detail about how created famous scents. Here guests have access to a small “laboratory”, where anyone can try yourself as a perfumer and create your own scent. The action takes about one and a half hours, and at the exit each participant is awarded a certificate of Fragonard, perfume and certifying the qualifications of the guest. The comic, of course, but still nice.
But nice all the same resort more than the historic center. Like many other popular seaside towns, it is characterized by a pronounced multiculturalism. For a real Provence you need to go North.
L’oustau de Baumaniere
Photo: Anatoly Miruk
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For greater immersion in the beautiful French countryside is best to rent a car as many sights and gastronomic oases are located in small towns and settlements, except where there is no bus no other, and the distance between them is so small that to adapt to the schedule of the local public transport is not necessary. With the Park here, by the way, it is much better than, for example, in the resort is nice, not to mention Paris.
The taste and light
Provence is the most popular destination of domestic tourism. The French can understand. Stunning views, varied attractions, a mild climate, incredible cuisine and the incredible hospitality of the local people have to come back here again and again.
In the castle of Les Baux de Provence
Photo: Anatoly Miruk
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Moreover, the combination of all this can be found even in the most remote places, like Les Baux de Provence. In ancient times a Celtic settlement in the Middle ages, the mighty fortress and the main center of power of the brilliant lords of Provence where the best troubadours competed in the art of poetry, the now — tiny village, lost in the Alpine foothills. The castle ruins have survived to the present day, and to inspect them you can easily spend the whole day. In the old quarry next door absolutely unique-equipped exhibition space (Carrieres de Lumieres), and in the village is the famous hotel L’oustau de Baumaniere c the equally famous restaurant, awarded two Michelin stars. At the head of this large farm is Jean-Andre Charial, a skill which is already tens of years enjoy fans of Haute cuisine from around the world. Not far away from Charial has a small vineyard, so his guests he treats not just the brand lamb rolls, and a great Mourvedre.
The above mentioned Carrieres de Lumieres — a topic for another report. This unique artistic space in the world, perhaps, not to find. In the huge halls of the former quarry to construct a complex light and sound installation that pays tribute to the work of a particular artist. Fragments of paintings are shown on the floor, the ceiling and walls. And technically, it is done so precisely that the viewer does not see where the end of the “screens”, why there is a sense of presence inside the canvas. In the current season, by the way, here show an installation dedicated to Marc Chagall. The French, he is also very close.
Castle Church Bo
Photo: Anatoly Miruk
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Les Baux is not the only unique place in Provence. Everywhere you can find something special: ancient monuments, lavender fields, vineyards, farms, restaurants, a variety of delicacies — from viscous olive oil to not similar to any of kalianov. For total immersion in provençal art de VIVR more should stay in some old castle — for instance, at the Villa Baulieu. The descendants of the ancient knightly family made his family home a hotel for everyone. Quiet Villa with a Park of the XVII century surrounded by vineyards, which the hostess is a lovely lady uses for its intended purpose: produces wine.
