Continue our tour around the Kizhi island. We’ve already visited the main exhibition, and now will go North =)
First look at house of the Karelian farmer Yakovlev. Overall, he looks like Russian peasant home Oshevnev and Elizarova, except for some parts: for example, the shape of the building. Inside, too, have distinctive features. Especially noticeable are the unusual items such as a bench made from half of a tree, the branches of which served as legs. It is felt that Karelian peasants particularly liked to use for his creations of form, created by nature itself. If you’d like to get acquainted with the house of Yakovlev already from the comfort of your home, thanks to this interactive journey. Near the house is a herb garden, which the Museum staff grow herbs. We ought also to have a such area health.
Well, we move on… and find ourselves at a crossroads – three roads before us. In fact, they point in the same direction, but each with its own “twist”.
Is the main, Central. It is located on a hill. While walking along the road the most important thing is to look around. Yes, cars run here, there and horses, so you need to be careful. But the main reason is the views. 360 degree view-just beautiful. Around – grass meadows: Ivan-tea, mother and stepmother, snapdragons, forget-me-nots, yarrow and other wildflowers, bathed in different shades of green. Their frame, like the contrasting frame for the canvas, trees and shrubs which are overgrown shore of the island. Behind – the spectacular views of all the decreasing, as the distance, the Kizhi Pogost. And, of course, water. Particularly rich in view on the right hand Onega surface, the island on it, and then, behind them, the open lake. Eyes rest, looking at such a picture. We used to close objects. In the city look nowhere to “turn around”, so the landscape is decorated with such a pure work perspective – just a gift for tired eyes.
Well ahead, cutting the meadow in half, running down the dirt road, over which hung extremely close to the man heaven. The effect of this proximity gives you, probably, extremely clean air of these places. He is so transparent that dark night, when there are no clouds, you can see a great many stars and very clear milky Way. Such a good and clear sky I have never seen anywhere else. Well, the road leads us forward… past the cemetery. Yes, on the island there is a cemetery (even two — the second in the churchyard) and puzzle she runs right by him. Most interesting is that this place doesn’t seem dark and gloomy (except at night =)). It is especially popular among foreign tourists. Still, Russian cemeteries are very different from Western – more colorful, elegant, so to speak. Well, not far from the mournful place, behind the mill, and worship the cross, our goal is the village. But, after all, we can choose two paths?
The second road is only a narrow path to the left of Central. Such stunning views on this road, although ubiquitous Kizhi grass and trees and here at Your service. But it is here more likely to meet the true masters of the island – vipers. Many tourists don’t believe us, guides that Viper on Kizhi really is. Consider this syllogism Museum for the salvation of lawns and strengthening of the discipline groups. Vipers still live here actually, a few thousand. Just somewhere less and somewhere more. Sometimes, they creep into the main exposition, but, in General, people prefer to avoid. I’ll write more about them later, but for now we need to continue the journey. The path posviawaetsa a little like snake, the depression and lead You, dear visitor, to the well, followed by sharply run up to the mill.
The third road is, as you can guess, right of center and goes along the Eastern shore of Kizhi island, so water landscape almost all the time. At first he hides behind thickets of bushes, but then the road approaching the shore, and separated from the water only a few meters of land but picturesque gnarled trees. Gradually begin to appear small garden houses, some of which boast lovely bright palisadnik. I work in the Museum has its own peculiarities – many employees have several months to spend on the island, even if their permanent place of residence very far away. Have the Museum to provide them with housing in garden small houses, in dormitories, established in the old buildings-monuments of the 19th and early 20th centuries. Many employees come here with their families, especially because often both husband and wife work in the Museum. Because very often in Museum villages can be seen frolicking children for whom this fabulous island with its famous churches and other monuments is something of a cottage. When we get garden houses, have a view on the monumental building of MOE, embellished banners. These banners are all passing and the passing of this building will be recognized that any employee of the Ministry of emergency situations the most important thing is “professionalism, courage, honor”. But even the harshest of the harsh representatives of this profession, nothing human is alien. Because here, also, friendly cute adorn flowerbeds and has a gazebo, apparently, for friendly get-togethers over a Cup of tea =) Well after fire part of our goal is the village of Fossa.
This village historically existed on this very spot, at least since the 16th century, if not longer. Now there are many houses, more than a century, built here and imported from other places. However, they are not just a dead element of the exhibition, and fulfill its original goal – people live there. This is partly a dormitory for the staff of the Museum, partially – conventional family home. There is also a Children’s Museum center for performing different projects come school and student groups. Next to it is the chapel of Peter and Paul from the village Tipinitsy. Along the shore cozy bathhouse, often come across the boat (it would be strange if they weren’t – after all we are surrounded by water). Summer life in the village, and the Island is seething. People walking, doing household chores – fetching water, flush bath, tinkering in gardens, swimming. The conditions here are not be called comfortable — the blessings of civilization got here very selectively: we have mobile communications, satellite dish, even wi-fi, but water supply, Sewerage and Central heating. However, you get used to it. It is not without incidents. For example, local cows before loved to gum on the street drying underwear. But these details only more fun. Yes and for the opportunity to live on Kizhi island you can forgive a lot.
Having admired plenty of the village, returning to the memorial cross. Right behind him is Naryina mountain – the highest point of the island. Go up a little its not a particularly steep slope (not forgetting to keep away from the stone mounds, where can bask the snake). At the top we meet the chapel of the Saviour (17-18 centuries), brought from the village of the Whigs. The chapel is closed, but nearby there is a shop – you can relax again and enjoy the scenery: if you look South, see Church of the Transfiguration and the pier with white ships, in the North, as you can see Moshupa swamp, lake and chapel of the Three Hierarchs. Meanwhile it’s time to think about the future route.
Before us again three roads. You can go back to the dock or the main exhibition. And, if time permits, to look at other parts of the island of Kizhi. For example, on the Western shore is situated the village of Vasilyevo, which is also known to us from the 16th century. There are also a lot of houses-monuments, among which stands out the house Sergina brought here from the village of Munozero. Somehow I imagined a fairy-tale tower. Looking at these buildings, you begin to doubt the fairness of stories about a dark and poor village. Though, probably, happened to every village. Like many local villages, there is its own chapel – the chapel of the assumption. In 2009, when it was restored on the spot carried out archaeological excavations. And for good reason!
Here find a variety of items 12-15 centuries. Even I rushed to make these digs his hand, hoping to find ancient treasure, but limited to the cleansing of the earth of unknown purpose stones. Now the chapel is back on track, so that all who come to the Island, plenty can stop looking. From Vasilevo road leads Kukuevo (Yes!), also where I live the employees of the Museum. Here is the Carpenter center, which conducted major work on the restoration of the Transfiguration Church. I heard that the tourists now, among other programs, we offer a visit to this center with a guided tour (get to it by bus). I think it should be interesting.
If you go from Narinol mountains and the cross further North, you can reach the most secluded part of the island. First, You will find a nasty surprise – a dump. In fact, our island is quite a clean place, but there’s one dark spot, against which many resent for years, to no avail. But then the road will delight You with another series of stunning scenery, thickets of raspberry, strawberry bushes (but remember about snakes – here they are very, very much). Then it will take You to several houses that seem gloomy in the surrounding silence and solitude – this is the so-called Pudozh sector, which contains buildings, brought here from Pudozh district. If the village of Fossa, Kukuevo residential and Vasilyevo, and it is felt that the energy of an active life, in this place are only restorers of icons in a small hut on the outskirts, and those rarely seen and heard.
Why is there sometimes scary, especially if you go at night and alone. Older house Windows look at you-eyes, as if asking, “Why are you here? Why disturb our peace? Why broke into our dreams about the past?”. And it seems like right now, before you turned her head right to look at you from the window for a long time the late owner of the house. But maybe am I so impressionable? Anyway, it is very quiet. One will hardly disturb the traveler in this place. You can sit on the bench, relax, immersed in his own thoughts, or completely clear my mind from them at the time – be given to contemplation and silence. Such moments of complete relaxation, meditative relaxation of mind and body is very important for people – they soothe, heal, balance the psyche, razboltannogo the daily bustle. And you can go even further, because the road does not end here.
We follow her, along Moshupa marshes, which in autumn are unusually rich in cranberries, which is actively used by all who live on the island during this period (despite the fact that cranberries are better to collect after the first frost, if not in the spring). Where does it lead us? And here’s the purpose – the chapel of Three Sanctifiers from the village of Kavgora. Proud, lonely, graceful beauty. Here is my favorite place. Because it is remote, people come here even less often than before Pudozh sector. However, some tireless mistress love to graze cows here, so sometimes, seeking solitude, come here and encountered the perplexed gaze chewing artiodactyls. Sometimes they may even show aggression. So what kind of contemplation with meditation =)?
These are all the main places to see in Kizhi island. To get around them by foot takes a lot of time and physical strength. You can take local transport: to hire a Bicycle or take a ride on the cart pulled by a frisky horse cute (though it will not take You on Pudozh sector). If you want to see everything, plan your time carefully in advance to be able to come back.
However, in the vicinity of Kizhi island also has much to offer, ancient villages, chapels, timidly peeping from the greenery of forests. Especially attractive for travellers the chapel of Varlaam of Khutyn and Paraskeva in the village of Podyelniki. Not only that, she is interesting as a specimen of wooden architecture, and is situated in an extremely picturesque location, and close at hand is an interesting ecological path. Walk on it – a real little adventure in which, you can learn a lot about local nature, due to the information stands located along the route.
I hope I managed to prove that the island of Kizhi is the place really worth a visit, not sparing time and effort on careful research. The main thing – to catch good weather, enough time, strength, good humor and cameras. And don’t forget that here You may be in danger: snakes and ticks! To reduce the risks, don’t go high in the grass, look not only around, but under legs, wear closed clothes, avoid the stone mounds and do not try to meet and make friends with the snakes – they don’t like what have seen some tourists.
However, a significant part of Island life is hidden from visitors, and they can’t enjoy many things that are available here living. I also don’t know much, never been here in winter or autumn. But all that I know I will discuss in the next section.