Hardly Kizhi carpenters of the 18th century were unaware of the fact that he lived in the first century BC in Rome, an architect named Vitruvius. However, this did not prevent them, like their ancestors, to erect buildings, exactly corresponding to the triad formulated by this legendary architect. Benefit, durability, beauty.Any building should have a purpose, must be stable, strong, durable, and, of course, aesthetic. Of course, these qualities can and should have and other human creations: everyday objects and art. Fully realized this, and our ancestors, adorned with carvings, drawings, dishes, towels, tools and many others that surrounded them in everyday life objects. And does not need to study the works of prominent scientists and universities to finish, to see this simple truth. For this you need to have a clear mind and be able to feel the surrounding world. Yes, these “simple people” of the Russian North their creations proved that he possessed all the qualities that are now more likely to ascribe a highly educated scientist. Even more, many modern figures of culture and art is much more distant from the understanding of harmony than those distant from us, the creators. Otherwise, it can not be, because no one will teach this understanding better than the ideal of the harmony of nature. And if our ancestors lived with her in direct connection, now we increasingly shut ourselves off from it.
And now I’ll tell You about the amazing place that inspired past generations to create masterpieces that are admired still. This is the Kizhi island and its surroundings.
It is from this place linked a turning point in my life where I decided that enough to go with the flow, it’s time to pick your own route. Once I saw the advertisement of training courses for tour guides of the Museum-reserve “Kizhi” and decided to try it. For me it was a serious step, because I’ve always been a shy person and afraid in the presence of strangers superfluous to say a word. But then I firmly told myself: “Alena, you will be led trips on this island, or I will finally cease to respect you”. In the end, the courses I finished and came to the island. How to become the guides in this Museum I describe here will not (I note only that the training provided is just wonderful). Let this post will be devoted entirely to the magical island of Kizhi, its neighborhood, and life here.
The main exposition. Photo Potechin.
Many people later told me that the Island has its own special character. He either accepts a person or not. There were cases, when someone came here for work and the same day went because I didn’t have a place to stay. And it so happened that someone thought going at the time and remained forever. This can be explained by mysticism, and the nature and preferences of the people coming. Anyway, the Island has its own atmosphere, but not everyone feels it. I saw among tourists and longing faces, and admiring. But to truly understand this place takes time. You need to slowly go through all the corners and nooks and crannies to climb to the highest point and look at the General surroundings, to meet the sunset and sunrise, listen to the silence, when all the ships left the pier, and the Island’s residents had gone home. These features among tourists, who spend here not more than three or four hours (the time of berthing of ships), usually not. Maybe someone will be outraged, but I think it is right. Whether the Island more accessible, be of here would take away all the charm of its solitude and some dilatasti.
The Church Of The Transfiguration
Why people come here for three or four hours? For example, they can visit the main exhibition of the Museum dedicated to the culture of Zaonezhie Russians. Its main treasure is the famous Kizhi architectural ensemble of the Kizhi Pogost or (for the sake of which, actually, usually here and seek): the Church of the Transfiguration, Church of the Intercession and the bell tower. This image certainly present in all the guidebooks of Karelia. The silhouette of the Church of the Transfiguration haunts the residents and guests of our Republic at every turn: paintings, books, clocks, cups, plates, bells, soap… From manufacturers like this, it’s even blasphemous toward the beautiful creature. It gradually becomes boring, sounds boring and banal. As heard on the song. However, despite the hackneyed image of the real form of the Church of the Transfiguration is breathtaking. I have exactly, anyway. Still, although I personally was admiring this masterpiece hundreds of times. To think that she is already three hundred years! Already three hundred years ago, people have the opportunity to enjoy the contemplation of graceful flowing outlines of the domes, aspiring to the sky. And which side does not look any it is surprisingly good. But inside I never was, because the Church is closed for restoration. No, for the tour guides there were special classes, but circumstances conspired so that I missed.
The Church Of The Intercession
But the Church of the intercession I have walked the length and breadth (except for the altar, of course) and many tourists enlightened on the subject of Church decoration.
Visitors to the Museum, most of them, traveling in several cities of Russia and everywhere necessarily come to Church, and sometimes more than one. I suspect that by the end of the tour they look at the icon can’t. I struggled to make the story quick and interesting. Moreover, the icons of the Church of Intercession has its own peculiarity – they are not quite canonical. Masters-icon-painters complemented their creations with details of everyday peasant life, which adds to their charm and poignancy.
The Icon “Transfiguration”
For example, the icon of the Transfiguration we see (all images are clickable, so you can view the image in more detail simply by clicking on it) on Christ, the garment with the edges of the embroidery, as was the custom of the peasants in those times. Pretty, isn’t it?
And my favorite (like many) an icon of “the last judgment” can be considered infinite. Among the guides walking funny the legend. One day during a thunderstorm, the guide was in no hurry to withdraw his group from the Church that people are not wet and not frozen. Stand by and be silent while the guide cannot, we must tell. In this case, the icon “last judgment” is a godsend. Our hero slowly transferred all the mortal sins mentioned in the icon, and it cost him to say “drinking”, as lightning flashed and thunder crashed. So guests of Kizhi island learned what sin the worst =)
Icon “last judgment”
Church of the intercession, by the way, the current. There are services on weekends and holidays, crown, baptize children.
For me the most interesting part of the main exhibition – is a village.
Unlike churches, all the buildings we see here were brought from other places. However, thanks to the talent of the people who created the Museum, they look organic. Here is where you can turn around and make a joke, and to adore the wisdom of our ancestors and their sense of beauty. For example, the house of the peasant Oshevnev. Wealthy, but a peasant. All as expected — good, strength, beauty. The house is large for a large family – 2 houses (living rooms), the room, the front hall, the little bedroom to live in. Yes, and the economic part, as usual in the North, under the same roof. The building is sturdy (of course, it was restored, but it is evident that originally it was made on the conscience). The house is decorated with carving. First of all, this is a variety of symbols, amulets. If you know their meaning, we can understand the aspirations of home owners. And, of course, they are quite typical for peasants – symbols of the Sun, water, fertility (in all senses of the word). What to ask the farmer at higher powers, are not as fertile soils, favorable weather, prosperity, and great healthy family? Signs of the same value and decorated clothing, and some household items. The Church the Church and for everyday life needs something more applied =). However, do not be surprised if in the 19th century, when was built this house, all such characters were simply tribute of tradition.
The house of the peasant Oshevnev. Photo from the personal archive.
If you go into the house, you can see the decor is very simple (here you can find a wonderful panorama of the areas of the house Oshevnev). No pictures (except of the icon) or porcelain statuette or dusty exhibition service. Every thing in business, all done solidly, every in their place. Well, many of them decorated. Towel is embroidered, on the distaff intricate painting. Again, benefit, durability, beauty. But the front room and the room the owners could probably afford to decorate and purely decorative trinkets, to the extent allowed harsh peasant life and character. After all a family here, with guests able to relax: read a book, to play chess, the music on the new gramophone to listen to. The situation should be appropriate. But if the job must perform, or the find tool, I have the room to go, but in the economic part of the visit: on the ground floor of every cattle, and the second and the workplace, and warehouse tools. Convenient: everything is at hand and warm. In the North, life is hard, but people will always figure out how to adapt.
For the spinning. Photo By Oleg Semenenko
Sit in the houses of the Museum and next to them masters and mistresses: they spin, weave beads, knit, embroider, do share. Just not listed. And every visitors about the art of his tells, so much so that those once again wonder at the intelligence of local residents.
Near the house you can admire the vegetable garden, barn and bath. And, of course, on the water surface and the Zaonezhje Peninsula with nearby Islands.
Further the road leads the tourist along the field to a peasant’s house Elizarova, near which master toys, products from birch bark, woven belt. Very close periodically call the bells of the chapel of the Archangel Michael. Say, the chimes can cure diseases. Here are our bell ringers and try to treat the whole neighbourhood is ringing that can be heard far away. At the chapel turn right – the house Sergeeva.
The harvest. Photo Of Boris Moskin.
In the fields too are hardworking Museum staff – plow, sow, reap, thresh. That’s just the flour on the grind, yeah the bread is not baked, but I think it’s a matter of time. Work in the fields is dangerous. And not just because you can hammer your fingers to grab, but also because under your feet can suddenly show up the real snake. And not just any harmless snake, and quite a poisonous Viper. And in the meadows near love nesting gulls-lesser black-backed gulls. Not only do they scream of unimaginable wild voice, still believe everyone who is in the vicinity of meadows mortal danger to Chicks. Therefore, birds often dive on the heads of tourists and Museum staff, instilling in them fear and terror. The main thing here is to keep calm — do not run and not going crazy — this will only provoke the feathered aggressor. And better stock up on hats poprochnee. Just in case.
Manufacturer koporsky tea
For the journey through the village you can learn a lot — how to build a house, sew a boat-ciganka), embroider dolnym stitch, needlepoint beaded beads, to appease the various spirits to do Koporye tea (to which I have felt most in love with the moment on the second floor of the house Oshevnev appeared exhibition devoted to the Russian tea)… to list them all I’ll even get tired. And not everything on this list is out of date and need only to Museum workers. And now cut log houses, navigating lake Onega on ciganka (though often emblazoned on the stern of an outboard motor). Women still like to decorate themselves and their home, often in a traditional style. And of course, not gone anywhere, the tradition of Russian tea. She looks different, but still we are happy to relax sipping fragrant tea and chatting with family and friends. And how many tourists are genuinely happy to find in the exhibition houses the same items, how they in the childhood had seen the grandparents. Much heat in these memoirs! Yes, the village tour is fun (at least in my case) and for the guide and for guests.
The Kizhi architectural ensemble and the Church of the resurrection of Lazarus. Photo from the personal archive.
But in the end reminds us of the spiritual Church of the resurrection of Lazarus, the oldest wooden Church in Russia. However, it is not local, but brought here from the Murom monastery. And now emblazoned on the picturesque island of Kizhi, showing us how it looked in the North of Russia, the first wooden Church, great-grandmother of the Kizhi architectural ensemble, which we are making a circle and came back.
That’s the main exposition. For many and impressive, but it’s not all that can be seen by the guests of the island. ‘ve been to Kizhi? Or maybe you have plenty of time? We have something to offer you.
P. S. a Small number of photos in this post are clearly insufficient to obtain a complete picture of these monuments, so they offer to use the virtual guide.
