Why should we have to go in Castile-La Mancha
Spanish community of Castile-La Mancha is a place unjustly deprived of attention of Russian tourists. Usually the maximum program — a day trip to Toledo. Of course, this region deserves more. Though, because the Knight of the sorrowful countenance, don Quixote come from. .<url>” explains why, going on vacation on the coast of Spain, you should definitely allocate a few days for a visit to the Castile-La Mancha.
Favorite El Greco
From the capital Madrid to Toledo — the capital of the Autonomous community of Castile-La Mancha is about an hour away and the Gulf of several centuries. In Madrid, high — rise malls and multi-lane highways, Toledo is a family — run little shops and streets, through which barely squeezes subcompact. They cling bumpers walls of the adjacent houses, but the locals and the drivers and owners of the property — this has long been accustomed. Yes, and how not to get used to, if that’s the way to get around is simply impossible.
Buses to the old part of the city do not go — will not fit on a bike on these hills will be able to pass is that the Olympic champion. There’s still a scooter, but is it possible to imagine a solid Spanish macho, go for the wine on this truck?
Tourists in Toledo the first thing we head to the Cathedral of St. Mary. Its construction began in 1226 and ended two centuries later. Feel the scale of this building is 120 by 60 meters — is possible only inside.
Photo: Timur Yusupov
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Outside the Gothic Cathedral surrounded on all sides by other buildings. The facade displays only a small Central area of the city, where stands another attraction, the Palace of the archbishops.
In the sacristy of the Cathedral — paintings by El Greco, Caravaggio and Titian. In the main chapel tourists view a huge monstrance of gilded wood.
Generally, in Toledo, the centre of Archbishopric in the country, the study of religious monuments should pay special attention to even the hidebound atheists.
Definitely need to go to the mosque of Cristo de La Luz. After the conquest of the city by the Christians in 1085, all the mosques were rebuilt or in the Church or in civil buildings. But the Cristo de La Luz and are now easily discern the characteristics of the Moorish architecture and in the interiors of the Arabic script, is adjacent to the Visigothic frescoes.
Coming out of the Cristo de La Luz, put away the guidebooks and just walk around the old town. Take a walk through the narrow streets, cramped, high-walled houses built of materials different centuries — the local pulled all that bad lay. Next to the Moorish stones might be hanging Roman column and doors in Gothic style. But on the street no luxury — all hidden in monasteries, churches and courtyards. There, if you’re lucky, you can look, asking local people about the small tour.
It is not necessary to deprive of attention and the alcázar — the fortress in the upper part of the city. Built in the XVI century, it once was the residence of kings of Castile. Now here is the library of the Autonomous community and the army Museum. Of course, do not pass by the bridge of San martín over the Tagus river. Here the tourists will certainly be photographed.
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The yards open for a week before the Corpus Christi (the feast of the Body and blood of Christ), usually falling on late may or early June. The superintendent is temporarily perekvalifitsiruetsya in the guides. Some not only show the tourists is decorated with original tiles, fountains, flowers and cats yards, but pritvorot doors in your bedroom and kitchen.
One of the most interesting courtyards belongs to Boris Lugovska — Russian artist living in Toledo for several decades. Stairs back to ancient Roman columns, and the walls are decorated with paintings by the author. The wife of Boris is smart and very active rose canales says that in the basement, they may equip a wine cellar. In the meantime, the wine has to buy in the store.
She rose before he taught painting to local kids, and now leads tours of the city and surrounding area for Russian tourists. She delves into everything and seems to know about the city hundreds of times more than any of the indigenous toleda. The daughter of a Spanish Republican, she grew up in Crimea and still loves this area of Russia with all my heart. Every year it for a few months, goes to Simferopol, where she has an apartment. Promises to stay, but always returned to Toledo.
The yard of a private house in Toledo
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Rose, like almost all local, says a lot about El Greco. Born in Crete, the Greek moved to Toledo in 1575, and here has created his major masterpieces. In 1586 he painted the Burial of count Orgaz”, which brought him fame and a lot of orders from the Church.
It is the creation of El Greco kept in the Church of San Tome. Even incessantly cackling crowd of Chinese tourists entered the temple and saw this magnificent painting, for a moment silent. The rest numb for a longer period of time.
“Burial” covers a whole wall. At the bottom of the painting portrays a lifeless count Orgaz, surrounded by the clergy and citizens, in the upper heaven, the angels and the Savior himself. In multi-figure compositions in the foreground stands a boy. Is the son of the painter, Jorge Manuel. He dedicated this painting, as evidenced by “autograph” of the painter — peeking from the pocket of the boy a handkerchief signed by El Greco and the year of birth of his son. They say that the picture captured and the master himself. True, about which figure — his self-portrait, art historians argue to this day.
After spiritual food is to think about the food bodily. To try Spanish tapas in Restaurante Alfileritos 24 (C/Alfileritos, 24). To snacks and local traditional gazpacho is recommended to be sure to take La manskoe wine.
Well fed and in hotels. For example, the state-owned Parador de Toledo (Cerro del Emperador, s/n), whose terrace offers the best views of the city, or located a two minute walk from the main square Fontecruz Toledo (Plaza Juego de Pelota, 7)
The Casas colgadas and contemporary art in the monastery of the Carmelites
Located at the other end of Castilla-La Mancha Cuenca, and Toledo, a UNESCO world heritage site, but that’s where the similarities probably end.
A well-preserved medieval fortified city stands on the precipice of the river Huecar. The river is spanned with a scary suspension footbridge, which like to do a selfie tourists. Hence, it is convenient to consider the “Casas colgadas” — the hanging over the cliff wooden houses with balconies.
One of them is the Museum of Spanish abstract art opened in 1998. Not come to the delight of the mere mention of Eduardo Chillida, Antoni tàpies or Gerardo Rueda travelers the Museum is rather interesting species, so that his visit can be safely given to no more than an hour. In the Museum of the Foundation Antonio Perez (Rda. de Julián Romero, 20), located in the Carmelite monastery of the XVII century and also overlooking the open Wakara, except for the building and curious works of Spanish authors, take a look at the paintings of Andy Warhol and Marius Rossion (O Gallop), who invented the Bibendum is the symbol of the Michelin company. In the shop at the Museum sells art books or art books. But for those who do not speak Spanish, will have to settle for Souvenirs — mugs, t-shirts, Yes.
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If from the monastery of the Carmelites to move along the river to the bridge in ten minutes or fifteen (it all depends on how often you stop to photograph the homes of local residents and of drying on the clothesline underwear) you get to the Plaza Mayor — the main square of the city with magnificent Cathedral of St Mary and St Julian.
It was built from the XII to the XVI century, and the façade remained unfinished. Inside, among the richest of the altar, of interest is a small Shrine at the outer walls of the Church. They were built with the money of wealthy citizens, here many of them are buried. Every self-respecting owner of such a chapel tried to decorate it as lavishly, many of the paintings in gilded frames and crafted crucifixes have been preserved to the present day.
Coming out of the Cathedral and looking in the gift shops, sit down with a glass of wine in one of the cafes to rest and just take a look on idly wandering locals and tourists. Be placed can, for example, on the veranda of the institution of San Juan Plaza Mayor, where you can eat tapas or a huge steak.
After lunch, as in Toledo, you need to throw away all the guidebooks, forget the route and go along the narrow, winding streets into the old town. At some point the old wooden and brick structures will change slightly posharpanny high-rise buildings of glass and concrete new town.
On the first floor are hiding vegetable shops, where to buy tomato and immediately to eat it. Or go to one of the inconspicuous, often without signs, bars — not spoiled by the attention of foreigners regulars love to buy a new friend a mug of iced beer. Of course, not knowing Spanish, to speak with local residents who are unable to associate a pair of words even in English not to mention Russian, is problematic. But sign language has not been canceled.
Five things worth to do in Castile-La Mancha
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To taste the wines in the Bodegas is a small winery, where tastings are held. For example, in Finca Loranque, near Toledo, tours of the bodega holds one of the owners, Lorenzo. Emotional winemaker who had previously worked as a journalist, tells in detail about all stages of production, and then he tastes the wine in the company of guests.
In the year of chetyrehsotletney from the date of death of Cervantes it is impossible not to recall his main character, don Quixote de La Mancha. In General, the literary route passes through many cities and villages of the community, but the interesting thing to look at the “giants with huge hands at the windmills.
You can go to Mota del Cuervo, where he remained several windmills. They stand on the so-called “balcony of La Mancha”, where a cloudless day can be seen up to 50 settlements.
To feel the history of the Palacio Del Infante Don Juan Manuel, located in the walls of the monastery, in Belmont. The rooms are converted cells, and in the middle of the lobby, you can stumble upon excavation. In the vicinity of the town is a XV century castle of Belmonte. In the XIX century there lived the wife of Emperor Napoleon III, Eugenia Montijo, during the civil war from 1936 to 1939 — housed a barracks and military prison. Now there is an entertaining Museum where you can see furniture and objects Montijo and to get acquainted with the life of high society of the last century.
To visit the only surviving theatre Corral de Comedias in Almagro, where once flocked crowds of local residents from poor people and students to the rich officials and the first persons of the city. The performances were seen standing (with the exception of the VIP Lounges located on the second floor). During the performances it is accepted to speak, and the bad actor from the stage and could get rid of it.
To taste the most famous local cheese — Manchego, made from sheep’s milk. To learn the production process can, for example, at the factory Quesería Artesanal de Queso Manchego a short distance from Almagro (La Solana).
