The main cause of waves is wind. It’s like he presses a surface of the water and brings it out of balance.
Australian photographer Matt Burgess (Matt Burgess) for six years takes the ocean. He’s taking pictures from unusual angles and even looks “under the wave” — most people don’t see the ocean from this side.
The oceans are constantly moving. The lapping on the shore, then rolled back the waves. The water in waves does not move in the horizontal direction. This can be seen float on the water.
From the sloping shore the wave “feels” bottom. By the friction of his movement, its lower part is inhibited. As the wave crest continues to move, leans forward and topples. There is a surf. On shore foamy water accumulates in the shaft. To meet him from the shore the water flows of the previous wave.
