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“I lost count, how many times was at the pole”

"Я сбился со счета, сколько раз был на полюсе"

North pole in recent years has become a popular tourist destination. To a virtual point in the Arctic ocean, through which passes the axis of rotation of the Earth, the travellers go on the icebreakers, helicopters, skiing and dog sledding. Famous Explorer Matvei Shparo, who since 2008 leads the students expeditions to the North pole, said “the Tape.<url>” about lifehacks Arctic, encounters with polar bears and football at the pole.

I lost count how many times was at the North pole — not less than fifteen. On the one hand, some sort of romance is gone, the expedition has become a job, but, on the other hand, every March I start to go crazy without the Arctic.

I remember my first impression of the harsh winter. I was about 13-14 when I first went on a winter hike in the Arkhangelsk region for the New year. A group of children, led by my father, traveler Dmitry I. Shparo, I had to go 100 kilometers. The first night it was minus 40, and my father lay in a sleeping bag in the tent, and next to her. And I thought, “what have I done, let me also try to sleep on the street.” The first time I experienced the sensation of sleeping in the cold, I understood that I can, that I am no worse than my Grand dad. In that campaign there were many challenges, I have for the first time in my life was hallucinating, but I remember very well the words of the father that those seven days of travel in complexity were exactly the same as any seven days of its journey in 1979 when he was the first to reach the North pole. This assessment has made me a very big impression and forced me to look differently at the world.

 

 

"Я сбился со счета, сколько раз был на полюсе"

Polar expedition of Matvey Shparo, 2016

Photo courtesy of Matvey Shparo

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In April, when we have an expedition with students, in the Arctic temperatures of minus 20-25, rarely minus 30. It’s spring, which is characterized by an anticyclone, the sun shines around the clock. I now came to my friend and he says, “You’re so tanned?” And I answered him: “From the North pole”.

Summer at the pole you can get on the ice breaker, there are special cruises. We go skiing in April, because that’s the only time operates drifting station “Barneo”, which is organized by the Russian geographical society. We enjoyed the hospitality and support of polar explorers “Barneo”, because from there begin our journey, there are helicopters, security — expeditions in children’s safety should come first.

First we fly from Moscow to Svalbard. Next, on a special plane that could land on the ice, leapt at the “Barneo”. There we are, based on the conditions of drift ice, weather forecasts, we choose a starting point at 89 degrees North latitude (the pole is 90 degrees North latitude — approx. “Of the tape.<url>”) and fly to the top of the route by helicopter.

A distance of 110 kilometers to the North pole we go skiing, with load, in about seven days. In 2006, I was a guide in the expedition to the pole of the Prince of Monaco, and we traveled by dog sled. Albert II was the idea to retrace the journey his great-grandfather, Prince albert I, the Arctic Explorer. The expedition was more extreme, though less physically challenging. There were more risks, because need to control the sled, we went to school for it. On the slopes, everything is much slower but easier to control the situation.

 

 

"Я сбился со счета, сколько раз был на полюсе"

The journey to the North pole polar night of Matvey Shparo and Boris Smolin and winter of 2008

Photo courtesy of Matvey Shparo

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Once at the pole, we perform the ritual things: play football, committed around the world. To do this, put the ice column height of 30-40 centimeters or mast with a flag — the Earth’s axis, the rays around her are drawn-meridians and the circles are parallel. If you stand on parallel and run in any direction, then for a minute you can cross all the meridians and to make a real journey around the Earth. Be sure to pour under the axle a little olive oil — to better the Earth revolved.

In Arctic travel cannot do without different tricks. For example, batteries should be stored closer to the body to not be consumed. When my partner and friend were Boris Smolin to the North pole during the polar night (expedition 2008 was the first case in history when the people got on the pole at polar night — approx. “Of the tape.ru”), we had 10 pounds of batteries for each. We expected 90 days. Pulling two sledges with equipment, food, fuel, so after the first half of the way to throw one sledge, after which it becomes much easier for you to go. In total, each carrying 140 pounds of cargo.

 

 

"Я сбился со счета, сколько раз был на полюсе"

Polar expedition of Matvey Shparo

Photo courtesy of Matvey Shparo

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All of our children, once in the Arctic, I want to meet a polar bear. But nine of the children’s expeditions we saw a bear only twice and three or four times — his footprints. And when Boris Smolin were preparing for the night of the polar journey and crossed long’s Strait separating Wrangel island from Chukotka, us for 14 days found 40 polar bears. When you go skiing and you see a bear at a distance of 200-300 meters, you can get a gun, shoot up a couple of times, and the animal will likely be frightened. Much more dangerous when you set up the tent, went to sleep and it comes to bear. It is unknown which side he will go, and you don’t understand, can you now jump out of the tent. Therefore, we have developed a special alarm system-the extension that is installed around the tent. If the bear crosses this perimeter, there is a loud sound. After receiving the message, we’ll be ready. We always have a gun, signal pistols, rocket launcher. Never bear for us not to attack. As mentioned in the movie “the taming of the shrew: “these are not people to negotiate with them.” Our interests do not intersect: the bear interest seal is to find, and we have to pole walk.

The most difficult thing in the expeditions is not cold or exercise, and believe that you will succeed. When the sun is shining, no wind, well you’re moving forward and everything is easy, how many pounds of cargo you got. But it gets hard when you mentally want to quit. And it is important to keep moving. As soon as you stop, nothing good will. All travel is a metaphor for ordinary life. Worth the stay, and all: there is no development, nothing happens.

For nine years I direct the students expeditions to the North pole. The main criterion for the selection of participants for our expeditions — a desire. It specifies how the person is ready to abandon the usual comfort, to risk, to adapt to other conditions and other people. Everything else — the ability to walk on skis, to put tent, to light a kerosene stove — it’s the technical skills that with the right teaching developed within several days. Candidates to join the expedition a lot, but those who want really, much less. All candidates take tests: psychological, physical, physiological. Some reveal the motivation of adolescents, some physical training. We’re watching them. For the nine expeditions, we have not had any mistake in the selection of participants.

"Я сбился со счета, сколько раз был на полюсе"

The selection of the expedition of Matvey Shparo 2016

Photo courtesy of Matvey Shparo

Expedition prove, that the moral qualities of the children surpass their physical performance. For example, two years ago, our team consisted of children in difficult life situation. There was a deaf guy Ahuramazda that at some point much of freezing fingers, they are white. It was important to further his hands were not cold. And then the other guy is Nikita from an orphanage from Kemerovo said that he will be the hands of Ahuramazda. During the journey in the cold permanently you need to remove mittens: some string to tie, to tighten the belt, pull up the zipper. And Nikita for five days followed by a friend and did it for him.

I want children who are traveling with me, learned something. But you can’t learn responsibility if you are not assigned any duties. Every morning on our tour of assigned duty, which must kindle a kerosene stove and melt water from the snow for all. They get up two hours before total recovery. I am on duty on the first day only to show how to do it. And then — the next six days — I tell the guys that each of them depends, whether we will get all to the pole.

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